An Escape to Anafi: Santorini’s Rugged, Wild Secret Sister

Finding Retreat on the Furthest Island of the Cyclades

According to ancient Greek legend, when the Argonauts were gripped by despair and caught in a fierce storm, Apollo caused the island of Anafi to emerge from the depths, offering them refuge.

Today, Anafi is an immeasurable retreat, just 15 nautical miles away from the busy tourist trodden streets of Santorini, Anafi is inhabited year round by just under 300 people. Our most treasured Greek islands that we’ve visited have always been those that are off the beaten path from the typical Greece visitor, and this year was no different. 

While we had a pretty vague idea of what to expect from Anafi before visiting, we were completely captivated by this mystical island - the last island of the Cyclades.

ANAFI MUSTS

UNWIND – Spend a quiet day at Katsouni Beach, a peaceful stretch of sand with clear water and tamarisk trees for shade.

DISCOVER – Stand at the base of Kalamos Rock, Anafi’s massive monolith rising straight from the sea, the second tallest in Europe.

SAVOUR – Taste Anafi’s simple specialties like local goat, ballothia pasta, and thyme honey, served at small tavernas across the island.

WANDER – Head to the north side of Anafi, where rugged cliffs, hidden coves, and untamed paths show the island at its wildest and quietest.

TAKE HOME – Bring back handmade pottery or a bottle of local wine, small reminders of Anafi’s craft and quiet taste of the Aegean.

Where Is Anafi?

Just 22 kilometres (15 nautical miles) east of Santorini’s bustling caldera, Anafi remains rugged, wild, and blissfully remote. It also sits about 78 kilometres from Astypalaia, the westernmost island of the Dodecanese, while Crete lies roughly 160 kilometres to the south, placing Anafi at a unique crossroads in the Aegean.

Arriving at any island by boat is special, but there was something timeless and otherworldly about watching Anafi’s shape emerge from the Aegean.

Why Visit Anafi: What Makes It Special

While we were initially pretty aware of how remote Anafi was, its anonymity was noticeable from the moment we embarked the small Maistros ferry run by Boatmen Union Santorini in contrast to the other massive ferries and cruise ships leaving Santorini’s bustling port. Everyone that was on the ferry was a different crowd entirely - with passengers wearing “I love Greece” apparel swapped for almost spiritual pilgrims, toting binoculars and countless soles clad in sturdy Tevas. 

Anafi challenged us, in a way that was echoed by others we met during our stay. When you’re used to having a set list of ambitions for a trip, even on Greek island holidays, Anafi only has a small handful of restaurants and bars, as well as no organised beaches. This really encourages you to slow down and enjoy what is, rather than pine for what’s next, ticking off the list. 

I also really appreciated that due to the less accessible transportation to the island and smaller number of accommodations compared to other islands, there’s only a certain number of people that the island can hold at once. This creates a sort of camaraderie, running into the same people over and over again throughout the island, and also opens the opportunity for meaningful conversations with strangers, something that we cherish most from our visit to Anafi.

Anafi’s essence is epitomised as a lesson in slowing down, feeling at ease with doing nothing, with no list to chase and no steady cell signal to cling to. Its quiet magic lies in this gentle test: flickering reception, rare ferries, and a solitude that demands you surrender to it.

How to Get to Anafi

Reaching Anafi is all part of the journey. As a remote island with no airport, boat transportation is the primary way of reaching Anafi (unless you have a private helicopter at your disposal). 

While the lack of regular ferries can be slightly inconvenient when planning your visit, I think that this is partially what keeps such a low number of visitors, and this is something that really keeps the island’s magic. 

From Athens:

If you’re planning to visit Anafi directly from Athens, Blue Star Ferries stops there on its Piraeus to Rhodes route, but be prepared for a long journey and inconvenient arrival times. This route runs about five times a week in summer, takes around 8 to 11 hours from Piraeus to Anafi, and usually arrives between 1 and 6 a.m. If you don’t mind long ferry rides and unusual hours, it’s still a perfectly doable option, adding to the complete Anafi experience. 

If you wish to bring your car on the ferry to Anafi from Athens, this is your only option, as the ferries from Santorini to Anafi don’t fit cars or motorcycles.

From Santorini: 

While we did also travel to Anafi from Athens, we decided to forego the long ferry to make the most of our sparse days on the island and fly to Santorini and then take the 1.5 hour Maistros ferry from Santorini to Anafi. These ferries are government mandated and run by the Boatmen Union Santorini. 

These ferries are much less frequent than the route from Athens, with just about three a week and potentially more during the peak months of Anafi’s summer season (July and August). 

We both absolutely loved this journey and found it so peaceful, with the first half of the ride gliding across the Aegean next to Santorini, and the second half approaching Anafi amongst the open waters. 

If you’re trying to keep transportation costs low, it usually works out about the same either way: round-trip flights to Santorini typically cost between €100–200, plus about €14 for the return ferry to Anafi.

A round-trip Blue Star Ferry directly from Athens to Anafi is around €120. So in the end, it really comes down to personal preference and convenience rather than cost.

Getting Around Anafi 

As for getting around Anafi, we opted for our favourite mode of Greek island transportation, a motorcycle rental. There’s something so dreamy about whisking around an island in the open air, especially as the sun sets and on an island such as Anafi, you feel as if you’re the only person on the island, in sync with nature and the ancient myths. 

If you don’t have a motorcycle licence (in Greece you need one to rent a motorcycle), the next best is renting an ATV four-wheeler, which is also extremely convenient on islands such as Anafi where you’ll likely come across plenty of unpaved surfaces that aren’t as easy to navigate with a car.

With that being said, renting a car is also an option, which I still completely suggest if you want freedom to navigate Anafi as you wish and have the opportunity to visit more isolated and secluded locations that aren’t accessible via public transportation.

For vehicle rentals in Anafi, I suggest renting through Manos here.

Taxis are available on the island, but with such a small population and low number of visitors, they are few, so I wouldn’t suggest solely relying on taxis in Anafi the way you would in a major city. 

If you’re feeling adventurous and keen to embark on a truly rugged Anafi experience, you could technically walk to many of the key points on the island. For example, the port to Chora 

Public Transportation in Anafi

While there is public transportation in Anafi, there aren’t many route variations in bus schedules, with routes being pretty direct between Chora and the port, passing the main beaches 3–4 times a day. There are also additional routes in the summer that also service the Monastery of Zoodochos Pighi and the most popular beaches on the island. 

For up-to-date bus schedules, check here.

Roukounas Beach

Where to Stay in Anafi

The most common accommodation in Anafi are bed and breakfasts or rooms to rent and small family run hotels, with the former being the most common except a few hotels on the island. There isn’t high tourist infrastructure, resulting in the authentic appeal of Anafi. 

To have a look at Anafi’s accommodation options and book your next stay in Anafi, visit here. 

Our Stay: Ypseli Anafi’s Hive 

We were lucky enough to have the chance to stay at Anafi’s most beloved, premier accommodation, Ypseli Anafi’s Hive. Ypseli is the common name for hive as used by people across the Aegean Sea, which feels fitting for a place that brings people together so naturally. Made up of nine suites, Ypseli feels like part hotel, part bed and breakfast, part retreat, and part home away from home. It takes the best bits of each and turns them into something completely its own.

From the moment we arrived, we knew we were in for something special. Every member of the small but mighty staff was genuinely welcoming, and you could tell they really cared about making each guest’s stay feel personal. They knew when to stop by for a warm chat and when to slip away again, leaving the space peaceful — a calm respect for quiet that everyone at Ypseli seemed to share.

We stayed in the Melissa suite, bright, and comfortable, with soft linens and neutral, earthy colours, local touches and an incredible terrace that looked out to the endless Aegean Sea. Waking up there each morning was peaceful, with the soft Cycladic breeze drifting into our temporary nest. 

A rare feat in an industry that often takes from the land, Ypseli pushes back and respects the island, finding ways to move in harmony with it. This was especially clear in the ingredients they use for breakfast and other meals at their restaurant. The rotating menu embodies Anafi’s local flavours and makes use of ingredients from Ypseli itself, from fresh tomatoes picked in their garden to honey from their own beehive on the island.

We really felt like we had our own little “family” during our stay, from the staff to the small group of visitors staying at Ypseli at the same time as us, this led to wonderful conversations, new friends, and something that lacks in many hotels, instead having a cold, individualist feel. 

Days unfold slowly at Ypseli, and we looked forward to quiet mornings that flowed into thoughtful breakfasts overlooking the limitless Aegean. Some days we’d wander down to what became our favourite beach on the island, Katsouni Beach, just a peaceful 12 to17-minute walk away, before coming back to spend the afternoon by the pool with an exquisitely crafted cocktail in hand.

It’s worth booking ahead, Ypseli’s nine suites fill up fast, and they’re only open for summer, from June to October.

What to Do and Where to Swim in Anafi

Like many small islands, the best thing to do on Anafi is to slow down. Take a break and spend long, salty days at the beach, then linger over sunset in the Chora or on your terrace with a view.

Beaches

Most of Anafi’s beaches and small settlements sit along the south, southwest, and southeast coast. There aren’t any organised beaches here, no rows of sunbeds, umbrellas, or bars serving drinks on the sand. Instead, the island’s coastline stays wild and simple, so you’ll need to bring what you need and pick your own perfect spot.

One thing to note: many beaches on Anafi attract plenty of nudists, even where signs suggest otherwise. It’s all part of the island’s laid-back vibe, but good to know if that’s not your thing.

Our favourite beach was undoubtedly Katsouni Beach. Of all the beaches we visited, it was the quietest, no matter the day or time. Katsouni is a small cove on the southern end of Anafi, perfect for solitude and feeling at one with the sea. The water is crystal clear, with soft, tanned sand that doesn’t irritate. You can reach it by boat or on foot along an easy, unpaved track, about a 12 to 17-minute walk from Ypseli.

If you want to stay close to food options, Roukounas is another good choice. It’s an easy walk east of Flamourou and is one of the longest stretches of beach on Anafi. Roukounas is popular with campers, so it’s worth arriving early if you want to find some shade. Just a short walk from the sand you’ll find Loupa Bar, a friendly, laid-back spot for an afternoon coffee or cocktail. Slightly further inland, near the main entrance to the beach, there’s also a tavern if you feel like a lunch or dinner break.

A few other beaches are worth checking out if you have time. Agioi Anargyri is a peaceful spot with a tiny chapel nearby and a quiet cove perfect for swimming. Flamourou, right next to Katsouni, is another small cove if you want a change of scenery without going far. Megas Potamos Beach is one of the more remote stretches, with raw, open sand and clear water that feels beautifully untouched. Agios Ioannis Beach is another quiet option, best reached by boat.

Chora

As with most Greek islands, Chora is the lively heart of Anafi. Perched 200m above the sea level, crowning Anafi, “Chora” or Anafi’s main town is where the majority of locals live, as well as where the majority of restaurants, bars, and shops are on the island. We couldn’t find any mini markets or shops anywhere except Chora, where there are three.

The views from Chora across the Aegean and over Anafi are just mesmerising, especially at sunset. We visited in June and Chora was quite quiet and relaxed, although locals told us in July and August that things liven up a bit, but it still isn’t too crazy when compared to Santorini, Mykonos, and many other popular islands in Greece.

Spend the day at the beach, then head up to Chora around sunset to enjoy dinner at a local taverna, a drink at one of the relaxed bars, or a slow stroll through its narrow lanes as the sky fades over the Aegean. It’s the essential Cycladic experience, with whitewashed houses and blue shutters, friendly locals going about their day, and none of the crowds you find on busier islands.

Hiking to the top of Kalamos Rock 

One of the most quintessential things to do on Anafi is the hike up the island’s famous monolith, which is the second-highest rock in Europe after the Rock of Gibraltar. We only had a few days on the island and wanted to make the most of our time without throwing off our sleep schedule, so we didn’t manage it this time.

On the southeastern tip of Anafi, Kalamos Rock is the island’s unofficial symbol, standing watch over the edge of the Cyclades with an almost mystical presence. Locals say an icon of the Virgin Mary was once found at its summit, and a small monastery was built there in her honour around 1700. It was later abandoned in the 19th century but remains a special place for those who make the climb.

The trekking path begins at the lower monastery at the base of the rock, with the first half quite steep. The full hike to the summit takes about an hour and a half for beginners and is generally safe if you stay sensible and well-prepared. It is safe for solo travellers, too, as long as you stay aware of your footing and surroundings. It is best to start early in the morning or just before sunset, avoid hiking during the heat of the day, and always bring plenty of water.

Some hikers choose to spend the night at the top with just a sleeping bag to catch sunrise from the summit, an experience many say is hard to put into words.

Anafi International Film Festival

If you’re interested in visiting during a livelier time on the island beyond the usual peak summer flow, every summer Anafi hosts the Anafi International Film Festival, which transforms the island into a playground for cinephiles. The festival features open-air film screenings, events, and conversations designed to inspire and connect people through cinema. Dates vary each year, so it is best to check ahead of time. If you wish to visit during the festival, make sure to book your accommodation and transport well in advance, as the island’s limited capacity fills up quickly.

Where to Eat in Anafi

Anafi only has about 10 to15 restaurants across the island, most of them tucked into Chora. We only managed to try two during our visit, but both were memorable and gave us a real taste of the island’s simple, authentic food scene. You’ll find everything from family-run fish tavernas and classic Greek grills to a handful of bakeries and laid-back cafés. Prices are very reasonable, which is another perk of exploring a quieter, less touristy Greek island.

Liotrivi

Liotrivi is a lovely family-owned fish taverna in Chora serving home-cooked dishes and the catch of the day. We loved the friendly service, the relaxed atmosphere with beautiful views, and the local Anafi wines on the list. The highlight for us was quite possibly the best grilled octopus we’ve ever had — perfectly tender and full of flavour.

To Steki

Also in Chora is To Steki, another family-run spot that feels like the kind of Greek island taverna you see in films, in the best way. It has friendly service, lovely views, and all the simple Cycladic touches you want. Everything we ate was delicious, from the beer and mustard chicken with fries to the classic moussaka and eggplant salad. Portions were generous, prices fair, and it was the kind of place we would happily eat at more than once.

Anafi truly felt like the edge of the Cyclades, balanced between a true island experience and something more mystical and unknown. We can’t wait to return, again and again, and to come back to ourselves while we do.

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