Slow Travel in Milos: A Guide to Greece’s Dreamiest Island

 

Milos is one of Greece’s fastest-rising island destinations, growing in popularity each year yet still far less crowded than Cycladic neighbours like Santorini and Mykonos. It ticks all the boxes for a restorative escape, with over 70 striking beaches, volcanic landscapes, delicious food, and small towns worth lingering in. What sets Milos apart is its rugged beauty, colourful villages, and an atmosphere that encourages you to slow down and savour the moment rather than rush through a checklist.

This guide invites you to experience Milos at a gentler pace, with a mindful and intentional approach to travel. There is no need to do it all. The real magic lies in wandering without urgency, taking in the stillness, and letting each day unfold naturally. After all, that’s what a Greek island holiday is all about.

Inside, you’ll find everything you need to plan your visit, including how to get there, where to stay, what to eat, and the best spots to swim and explore. Whether you're watching the sunset from a quiet cove or lingering over a seaside lunch, Milos is a reminder that sometimes the best experiences come when you take your time.

 

How to get to Milos

By Ferry:

Milos is easily accessible by ferry from Athens Piraeus port, as well as from nearby islands like Mykonos, Santorini, Naxos, and Paros. Several ferry companies operate the Athens–Milos route, with travel times ranging from just over seven hours on standard ferries to around two and a half hours on high-speed options. Ticket prices vary depending on the type of ferry and time of booking, generally falling between €40 and €80.

I personally prefer taking the ferry to the islands. It adds something special to the journey and makes the whole experience feel more authentic. It almost feels like stepping into a different era of travel. There’s nothing quite like arriving by boat and watching the shoreline of a new place come into view, the epitome of slow travel.

By Plane: 

Unfortunately, ferry costs continue to rise, largely due to the growing popularity of the islands and increasing demand during peak seasons. What was once a budget-friendly and accessible way to island hop has become out of reach for many travellers, especially those trying to explore multiple destinations. For some, the cost of a return ticket alone makes ferry travel a difficult or even impossible option.

Fortunately, many Greek islands, including Milos, have airports and are served by regional carriers. While a round-trip flight from Athens typically costs just under €200, it can still be a more affordable and time-efficient option compared to the fast ferry. If you're keen to pinch pennies and save some time, flying is a good alternative, especially as ferry costs continue to rise.

That said, I still recommend taking the ferry when possible, both for the sustainability of travel and the authentic experience it offers. However, I completely understand that sometimes flying is the more practical choice.

 

Getting around Milos: 

As the fifth-largest island in the Cyclades, Milos is more developed, with bus routes connecting the main towns. However, these services are much less frequent than what you’d find in major cities or on the mainland. As a result, relying on public transport can limit your flexibility, often leading to long waits if you miss a bus, as the next one may not come for a while.

One advantage Milos has over many other Greek islands is that it does offer public transportation, which is helpful if you're unable to rent a car, scooter, or ATV. That said, the buses are infrequent and can cut into your downtime, adding a layer of stress you might not want on a relaxing trip.

Renting your own vehicle gives you the freedom to explore the island entirely on your own schedule, without being tied to timetables. While a car is a solid option, if you're only renting for your stay on Milos, I highly recommend going for a scooter or ATV, if you're comfortable with it. We usually rent scooters when we visit islands, and there’s something truly magical about riding along the coast at night, with the sea beside you and the moonlight reflecting off the water.

For reliable car rentals across Europe, we consistently turn to Discover Cars. Over the past four years, it's been our go-to platform for finding the best deals and most competitive rates when exploring European destinations.

 

Where to stay in Milos

When deciding where to stay in Milos, prioritise a location you'll genuinely enjoy, considering both the feel of your chosen property and the character of its surroundings.


This leads to two primary strategies:

  1. If you plan to rent a vehicle, consider a more tranquil, less central area. Look for a property that resonates with your personal style and the kind of atmosphere you desire as your home base, enabling you to really feel in a home away from home, slow down, and enjoy the peaceful energy of Milos. The majority of must-visit spots on the island aren’t too far away, so for the most part, you’re never going to be too far away. 

  2. If you’re not going to be renting a vehicle, or you prefer to be in busier areas to soak in the local feel, I suggest staying in one of the main towns, where the majority of your needs are walkable, and you’re never far from a beach. This is the perfect way to settle into the beat of local life. 


Pollonia 

Nestled on the northeastern coast of Milos, the lovely fishing village of Pollonia offers a delightful blend of charm and convenience. As Milos' second-largest settlement, it's well-developed with excellent fish taverns, inviting breakfast spots, and relaxed evening bars, all while beautifully respecting the area's original Cycladic architecture. For a wonderful base that provides ease of access without the intensity of the island's busiest spots, Pollonia is an ideal choice.


Where to stay in Pollonia:


Melian / Perched on the shores of Pollonia, Melian is a boutique hotel with a thoughtful approach to sustainability and a strong eco-conscious ethos. Sweeping sea views, private terraces with jacuzzis, and warm, attentive service create an experience that feels both indulgent and intimate.


En Milo / En Milo is a small, family-run hotel in Pollonia, just a short walk from the beach. Rooms are simple and comfortable, many with sea views and private verandas. It's a quiet spot with helpful service and easy access to local tavernas and the rest of the island.



Adamas 


Milos’ main port and largest town, Adamas has been the island’s hub of activity since it was founded in the late 1800s by Cretan refugees. Today, it’s a lively spot packed with shops, tavernas, cafés, and bars, making it the go-to base for visitors who want to stay close to the island’s nightlife and energy.


Where to stay in Adamas:


Portiani Suites/ In the heart of Adamas, Portiani Suites offers a clean, modern base just minutes from the port. Some suites come with sea views and balconies, and its central location makes it easy to explore beaches, restaurants, and the rest of the island.




Plaka

Perched above Adamas, Plaka is the historic heart of Milos. With its whitewashed alleyways, neoclassical houses, and sweeping sea views, it’s one of the island’s most scenic spots. While it’s quieter than the port, it still has a good mix of restaurants, shops, and sunset bars, just without the late night buzz. It’s ideal if you want atmosphere and charm, but prefer a slower pace.


Where to stay in Plaka:

Niove Suites/ Tucked into the heart of Plaka, Niove Suites offers easy access to the village’s charm while being just a 14-minute walk from the colourful shores of Klima Beach, giving you the best of both worlds. The suites combine sleek, modern design with sweeping sea views, all at a price that’s affordable for most holiday budgets

 


How to explore Milos slowly 

A trip to any Greek island is a chance to step back from the rush of daily life, but Milos makes it especially easy to settle into a slower rhythm. Unlike some of its neighbours known for buzzing nightlife and adventure-heavy itineraries, Milos leans into a gentler pace. It’s a fairly large island with an impressive stretch of coastline, meaning you’ll never struggle to find a quiet beach or a peaceful corner to unwind and recharge.


Long Beach Days

Everyone travels differently, but where you are shapes how you spend your time. In a city, it’s natural to rush from sight to sight. On an island like Milos, the best thing you can do is slow down.

With over seventy beaches, Milos isn’t made for ticking off lists, it’s made for long, salty swims, afternoons lost in a book, and soaking up the stillness. From the sculpted white rocks of Sarakiniko to the soft sands of Firiplaka, there’s always a new stretch of coast to discover, or simply return to.


Sail and Explore: Boat Tours & Rentals

For a different perspective on Milos, head off land and onto the water. Renting a small boat or joining a guided tour is one of the best ways to explore the island’s hidden beaches, sea caves, and turquoise coves.

No license or captain is needed to rent a 30hp boat, just a quick briefing, and you’re off. Most rentals fit around four to five people, making it ideal for couples or small groups. Pack a cooler with local snacks and drinks, and chart your own route to places like the dramatic caves of Kleftiko and the secluded Tsigrado Beach, which is best reached by sea.

Not quite ready to be captain for the day? No problem, there are plenty of boat tours that’ll take you to the same stunning spots, no navigation required.

Explore the Island’s History

Beyond its cyan blue waters and expansive beaches, Milos holds a rich and ancient history. The island has been inhabited since the Neolithic Age, and traces of that past are still visible today.

To dig deeper, head to the Archaeological Museum in the heart of Plaka for a closer look at Milos through the ages. The Mining Museum is also worth a stop. It tells the story of the island’s volcanic terrain and how its mineral wealth shaped both its economy and culture.

You can also explore the island through a range of tours, from an archaeology and culture tour that delves deeper into Milos’ rich history, to a geology and volcano tour for those particularly interested in the island’s distinctive landscape and geological formations.

Hiking in the Shoulder Seasons

If you’re visiting in May or September, when the temperatures are more forgiving, consider swapping a beach day for a walk inland.

The hike to Profitis Ilias, the highest point on the island, begins in Agia Marina and steadily climbs through wild, fragrant terrain. At the summit, you’ll find a tiny whitewashed chapel and views that stretch far across the Aegean. It’s a rewarding experience that offers stillness and perspective.

Slow Village Wanders

One of the best ways to get a feel for local life is to spend time in Milos’ villages. Plaka, perched on a hilltop, is full of narrow alleys, whitewashed homes, and wide island views. Sunset from the old castle is a highlight. Arrive early if you can. Most people gather in the same few viewpoints, but it doesn’t take much exploring to find a quieter spot.

Pollonia, on the other hand, has a more relaxed seaside rhythm. It’s ideal for slow lunches, harbour strolls, and easy evenings by the water.

Pottery and Panigiria

You can also visit a family-run pottery studio near Adamas or Mandrakia, where Cycladic ceramics are still made by hand. Some studios offer casual workshops or short demonstrations that give you a glimpse into the island’s artistic traditions.

If your timing is right, try to catch a local panigiri. These summer festivals, held across Greece in honour of patron saints, are filled with dancing, live music, and delicious home-cooked food. They are one of the most joyful and authentic ways to experience Greek culture.


Where to eat in Milos 

Milos’ cuisine is a beautiful reflection of traditional Greek food, with an emphasis on locally-sourced meats like goat and lamb, thanks to the island’s abundant livestock population. As an island, fresh fish and seafood are also abundant, and you’ll find some of the most delicious seafood dishes here. From slow-cooked goat and lamb to the daily catch, Milos offers a rich culinary experience that highlights the island’s diverse natural offerings.

I was particularly impressed by the quality of the baked goods and the brunch and breakfast spots on the island. The traditional Greek pastries and freshly made breads stand out, offering a perfect start to the day. Whether you’re sitting down at a family-run taverna or grabbing a quick bite from a street vendor, the island’s food culture is an essential part of its charm. Here are some top places to experience Milos' food scene.



Sit down restaurants


Gialos 

Located in Pollonia, Gialos is known for its ultra-fresh seafood, served right on the waterfront. Perfect for a leisurely lunch or dinner as the boats come and go.


Oh! Hamos!

A Milos institution, this family-run taverna near Papikinou Beach serves traditional dishes with handwritten menus and recipes passed down for generations. Try anything cooked in the clay pot.


Bakalikon Galanis

Tucked in Tripiti, this spot offers a more local, meze-style experience with an excellent wine list and authentic island flavours. Great for a long, graze-style evening.



Souvlaki/street food



Gyros of Milos

For a quick and satisfying bite, this is your go-to. Expect all the classics, gyros, souvlaki, pita, all impressively flavoured and perfect for a beach break or casual dinner.




Breakfast/brunch 


Cafe Palaios

A cosy spot in Plaka with traditional pastries, excellent coffee, and a lovely view if you snag an outdoor seat. A good place to start your day slowly.


DOM

A modern café with light breakfast options, smoothies, and a chill vibe. Ideal for those staying in Adamas and looking for something easy before setting off.


Kivotos ton Gefseon

A charming bakery and café in Pollonia offering homemade pies, fresh bread, and sweet treats. Their baked goods make a great on-the-go snack for a beach day.

 

A Milos sample itinerary

Milos is best experienced slowly. Rather than trying to tick off a list of must-sees, give yourself space to enjoy what the island does best: time stretching out, salty swims, leisurely meals, and moments that aren’t planned. One or two meaningful activities each day is more than enough, the rest of the time is for naps, dips in the sea, and unhurried wandering.

The sunsets in Milos are similar to something out of a postcard

Day 1: Arrive, slow lunch in Pollonia, beach nearby.

Arrive and settle into your accommodation. Once you're ready, head to Pollonia for a long, slow lunch by the water. It’s the kind of place where your shoulders drop a little just watching the fishing boats drift in and out. Afterward, take a walk along the shore or have your first swim nearby before a relaxed evening.



Day 2: Morning at Sarakiniko, boat tour to Kleftiko.

Start your morning early at Sarakiniko, before the sun gets too strong and the day visitors arrive. The lunar-like landscape is unlike anywhere else in Greece, and early hours give you space to enjoy it in peace. While some people cliff dive here, it's worth saying that it can be dangerous if you don't have experience or proper training. The rocks and depth are unpredictable, so it's safest to enjoy the view from solid ground unless you're confident in your ability.

In the afternoon, take a boat tour to Kleftiko. It's the most magical way to explore the island’s hidden coves, sea caves, and turquoise waters. Bring sunscreen, plenty of water, and your snorkel if you have one.



Day 3: Morning wandering Plaka, Catacombs visit, sunset at the castle.

Ease into the day with a slow breakfast and a morning stroll through Plaka’s quiet alleys. Spend time wandering into small galleries and shops, then make your way down to the early Christian Catacombs and the ancient Roman theatre nearby. Both offer a glimpse into Milos' layered history, with sweeping views along the way. Stick around for sunset, the view from the castle is beautiful, but aim to get there early to avoid the evening crowds and find a peaceful spot of your own.



Day 4: Lazy beach day at Firiplaka or Paleochori, slow dinner.

This is your full beach day. Firiplaka, Tsigrado, or Paleochori are all great options depending on your mood, whether you want easy access, an organised beach club, colourful cliffs, or something a bit more tucked away. Bring a book, take breaks to swim, nap in the shade, and grab a casual lunch nearby. By evening, head to a waterside taverna for dinner and stay out as long as you like. 



Day 5: Optional second boat day or just seaside lounging and café hopping.

Keep your last day light. You might opt for another boat tour to Poliegos if you want more time at sea, or just stay close to home with café hopping, last-minute dips, or a long lunch with local wine. Watch one last sunset and soak up whatever you’ve missed. No need to fit everything in, that’s the beauty of Milos, after all. 

 

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Olivia

Hi there! I'm Olivia, the editor of Urban & Beyond. I currently call Athens home, but you'll often find me hopping around Europe, chasing the best of each season. Whether it's spring blossoms, summer coastlines, autumn foliage, or winter wonderlands, I follow where the magic is and love to discover the heart and soul of a destination.

My passion is helping you experience destinations in a meaningful way. I love sharing my favourite stays, must-visit restaurants, and the best spots to reconnect with nature, no matter where you go.

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