Things to Do in Thessaloniki: A Complete Food & City Guide

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When planning a trip to mainland Greece, most people stop at Athens. But head north, and the atmosphere shifts completely. Thessaloniki feels different from the moment you arrive.

After living in Greece for five years, I am almost embarrassed it took me this long to visit. The food alone was some of the best I have had in the country, and that is saying something. Add in easy access to the beaches of Chalkidiki and the sight of Mount Olympus rising in the distance, and the city genuinely surprised me.

Founded in 315 BC by King Cassander and named after Alexander the Great’s sister, Thessaloniki is one of Europe’s oldest cities. Today, layers of Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman history sit right alongside a lively waterfront and a huge student population. It feels creative, youthful, and lived in, not polished for tourists. Prices are still reasonable compared to many European weekend destinations, especially when it comes to food.

Here are the best things to do in Thessaloniki based on our first-hand experience, plus where to stay, where to eat, and what is actually worth your time.

Where is Thessaloniki?

First things first, where exactly is Thessaloniki? If you take a look at the map of Greece, you’ll find it in the north of the country, close to the borders with North Macedonia and Bulgaria, stretched along the Thermaic Gulf. 

Its location gives it a different feel from Athens than I expected. It feels Greek at its core, but you can sense the Eastern and Balkan influence too.

Is Thessaloniki worth visiting? 

Thessaloniki is absolutely worth visiting. It’s completely beloved by Greeks, and every time we told someone we were going, they lit up.

It’s Greece’s second-largest city — but it really doesn’t feel like it.

It’s more like the little sister that stays out of the spotlight, but once you spend time with her, you realise she’s actually the more interesting one.

Athens sometimes feels slightly too gritty for me, and Thessaloniki makes up for what it lacks — it’s cleaner, greener, and maybe even more stylish.

I also couldn’t get over the views of Mount Olympus in the background.

It just sits there in the distance from the sea, and it gives the whole city a different kind of backdrop.

The food in Thessaloniki is worth the visit itself. Home to plenty of beloved Greek treats and dishes such as bougatsa, koulouri, and some of the best seafood in the country, this city knows exactly what it’s doing when it comes to eating well. 

The city is also home to Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, one of Greece’s top universities, and if you’ve followed us for a while, you’ll know we’re always drawn to university towns. It changes the feel of a place. 

When to Visit Thessaloniki 

Fall and Winter in Thessaloniki

Winter and fall are wonderful times to visit the city, and in my opinion, it does “cozy” marginally better than Athens. Maybe it’s because it’s colder. Who knows, but I’m all in for it.

If you’re looking to tack Thessaloniki onto a hiking trip in Northern or Central Greece, either to Mount Olympus, Meteora, or even Zagori, this is ideal as well.

Spring and Summer in Thessaloniki

Summer and spring are great times to visit, too, but for a different type of traveller. It’s warmer, much busier, and summer in particular can feel quite humid.

If you’re visiting the beaches of Chalkidiki, Thessaloniki is a must for a city break before or after your beach time.

When to Avoid Visiting

There isn’t really a bad time to visit. It just depends on whether you prefer fewer crowds and cooler air, or warmer weather and a livelier atmosphere.

The only time I would personally avoid is Greek Orthodox Easter. Greeks love to go out, travel domestically, and celebrate, so the city fills up quickly. Restaurants book out, accommodation prices rise, and it just feels noticeably busier overall.

How Many Days in Thessaloniki

While Thessaloniki, as a greater city, is pretty big, the centre is quite small and compact, so in my experience, you only really need 2 to 4 days to experience the best of the city.

We stayed for a long weekend, and it was perfect. After one full day of wandering, we felt like we understood the layout, and from then on it was just about seeking out the specific restaurants, cafés, and sights we had bookmarked.

If you’re moving at a faster pace, two days is enough to see the main highlights. If you like slower mornings, long meals, and space to explore neighbourhoods properly, give yourself three or four.

How to Get to Thessaloniki

You can either fly or drive to Thessaloniki, depending on where you’re travelling from.

From within Greece, especially if you’re coming from Athens, those are your two main options.

Flying from Athens

If you’re short on time, flights from Athens to Thessaloniki are frequent and quick, usually around €70 one way, and about 45 minutes in the air.

Thessaloniki Airport (SKG) is small, close to the center, and easy to navigate.

Driving from Athens

We visited from Athens since we live here and wanted to bring our dog, so we drove.

It took us around 5 ½ hours, and most of the journey is a straightforward highway heading north.

It honestly wasn’t as bad as I expected. What surprised me most was how much the landscape shifts as you go, gradually feeling less Mediterranean and slightly more Balkan the further north you get.

Flying from Europe

If you’re travelling from elsewhere in Europe, Thessaloniki Airport (SKG) has solid year-round connections to major cities.

From what I’ve seen, flights can also be slightly cheaper than flying into Athens, which makes it worth checking both options when planning.

Where to Stay in Thessaloniki

If you want to be in the heart of the action during your time in Thessaloniki, the only option really is to stay in the city center. 

The Modernist

We stayed at The Modernist Thessaloniki on Ermou Street, the perfect little urban stay right in the centre, just steps from Aristotelous Square. We loved everything about it and would definitely stay there again when we visit Thessaloniki next time.

Aside from how central it is, it really gives off that home-away-from-home feeling, but set inside one of the most beautifully restored neoclassical buildings from the 1930s.

In Athens, there are many of these, but Thessaloniki genuinely impressed me with how well they’ve taken care of them and put them to good use, like the Modernist.

It felt like a “lifestyle” hotel without being cliché or overly brand-driven. Everything was minimalist, but done properly, so it didn’t feel sterile or bare.

Our room had a balcony overlooking Ermou Street, and with the Marshall speaker playing the house-made hotel playlist, we really felt at home.

So did our dog, Orion.

Orion was also properly looked after. They set up his own little dog bed in the room along with water bowls, which made the whole stay feel even more thoughtful for him, too.

The bed was genuinely comfortable and surprisingly spacious, which always makes a difference on a city trip. 

Coffee capsules and tea were included in the room, and while the mini bar wasn’t complimentary, it was very enticing, stocked with local products rather than the usual generic options.

Breakfast is served on the rooftop. Although the space is a bit tight, everything was impressive and delicious, the perfect way to start our days in Thessaloniki.

 I’m still raving about the Thessaloniki koulouri from a local bakery and the made-to-order eggs, however you like them. There’s something for everyone, from cold cuts and Greek pies to homemade cakes and Greek yogurt bowls.

While there isn’t an on-site bar or restaurant, they’ve joined forces with local spots like Thess Bao for bao, Salento for pizza, Balboa for burgers, and Roots for vegan food. It takes care of room service and adds another layer to the local feel of the Modernist.

One of my favorite memories from our trip was spending the evenings on the balcony with a glass of Greek red wine, watching the city go by. It’s exactly the kind of stay that makes a city feel personal.

Still searching? Here are some other options.

The Excelsior Hotel  / A classic hotel located right in the heart of the city centre, just steps from the waterfront, The Excelsior feels more modern inside than its traditional façade suggests.
Book Here

Antigon Chic Hotel / A modern hotel located in the centre of the city, with ancient ruins visible beneath the building, it feels slightly different from the usual boutique stay without trying too hard.
Book Here

Electra Palace Thessaloniki / A grand hotel located right on Aristotelous Square, it’s easily one of the most quintessential stays in Thessaloniki, with classic interiors and front-row views over the waterfront. Book Here

72 AD Suites / A sleek aparthotel located in the city center, 72 AD Suites is a solid option if you prefer more space and a slightly more independent stay while still being within walking distance of everything.
Book Here

Where to Eat in Thessaloniki

While my favourite thing to do on any trip is eat, some cities make it even more of a priority, and Thessaloniki is one of them.

In fact, it’s been designated a UNESCO City of Gastronomy.

If you’re wondering where to eat in Thessaloniki, you’ll quickly realise the options are endless.

From traditional taverns and modern Greek mezze spots to bougatsa shops serving the city’s signature flaky pastry and newer microbakeries, old meets new really is the theme here.

We honestly wish we’d stayed longer just to try more places, but these were our favourite spots to devour Thessaloniki bite by bite.

Bakeries

MLRT

After having one of the best bruschettas of our lives at Super Ioulios natural wine bar, we needed to know where the bread was from. It was that good. Our waiter told us MLRT, a microbakery in the centre, specializing in sourdough.

They do everything from sweet rolls and proper crusty loaves to made-to-order sandwiches and pies. If you care about good bread, this is the place. We had the chicken pie, and it was easily one of the best things we ate in Thessaloniki.

Bougatsa Giannis

While Bougatsa Giannis has become one of the most iconic bougatsa shops in Thessaloniki, it still deserves a mention. 

They’ve been open for over 27 years, the dough is made fresh daily, and there’s almost always a queue out the door, especially in the mornings, which tells you everything you need to know. 

You can go sweet or savoury, and honestly, you can’t really go wrong either way.

Open Lab

Open Lab Bougatsa has been around since 1975, and everything is still made fresh on site each day by the family behind it. 

It’s located near Kamara and feels much more under the radar, but just as authentic as Giannis.

If you’re after something a little less obvious, but still properly done with quality Greek ingredients, this is the spot.

Greek Food

Contrabando

I think my favourite kind of food to eat in Greece is modern Greek, the no-frills spots that take inspiration from traditional taverns and classic dishes, but push them slightly further by playing with flavour combinations.

Contrabando, meaning “contraband,” was suggested to us by a local, and we were so glad we went. It’s located right near the Roman Forum of Thessaloniki, making it an easy stop while exploring that part of the city. 

It’s a small space and fills up quickly, so I’d recommend going before peak Greek dinner time if you can. 

The menu isn’t huge, but every dish we tried impressed us. I couldn’t get enough of the fried cheese croquettes with tomato jam, while Maria discovered her new favourite way to eat horta, boiled greens served in kefir with pickled onions.

Porkitto

For gyros or souvlaki in Thessaloniki, Porkitto is a solid choice just below Ano Poli. I’m a bit picky when it comes to gyro, but this one impressed me. I went for the chicken gyro wrap, and it was really good, simple, well-seasoned, and clearly popular with locals.

Quick Bites

Salento

One place that just about everyone suggested we try in Thessaloniki was Salento, an Italian street food spot known for its wood-fired pizzas and pizza sandwiches. We didn’t have time to sit down, so we grabbed a few sandwiches to take away.

I do think they would’ve been even better eaten fresh, but what we had was still really good. The dough impressed me, and after living in Italy, I don’t say that lightly. The flavour combinations were also more creative than I expected — we tried the chicken Caesar, bolognese, and both pulled pork options.

Sweets

Trigona Elenidis 

It’s not a trip to Thessaloniki without trying the famous trigona panoramatos, and there’s no better place than Trigona Elenidis, right in the centre of the city, off Ermou.

Created in the Panorama neighbourhood in the 1960s, trigona panoramatos have become one of Thessaloniki’s most iconic sweets. Basically, a filo triangle filled with vanilla cream, the simplicity is what makes it so good. At Elenidis, it’s executed perfectly. It’s not overly sweet, the vanilla comes through clearly, and the pastry is buttery and flaky. 

Things to Do in Thessaloniki 

Thessaloniki isn’t the kind of city where you need a long checklist of sights, but there’s more to do than you might expect. 

Some of our favourite things were simple, like walking the waterfront or spending time in Ano Poli, but others genuinely surprised us, especially riding the Thessaloniki Metro, which is basically an underground archaeological museum.

 Add in the White Tower, a night out in Ladadika, and a seriously strong coffee and wine scene, and you’ve got more than enough to fill a long weekend.

Ride the Thessaloniki Metro (An Underground Archaeological Museum)

After around 18 years of construction, the Thessaloniki Metro finally opened in 2024.

The reason it took so long was what they uncovered beneath the city while digging. Instead of pushing through, they preserved it.

Over 300,000 archaeological artefacts were found, making it the largest archaeological excavation ever carried out in Northern Greece.

While exploring the city on foot, we had to go down into the metro to see it for ourselves.

You’ll find a preserved 76-metre stretch of the Roman Decumanus Maximus, along with Byzantine-era fountains and intricate mosaics built directly into the stations.

Best Metro Stations to Visit in Thessaloniki

The two best stations to visit are Venizelou and Aghia Sophia.

At Venizelou, you don’t even need to ride the metro. Just head down the escalator, and you’re face-to-face with the Roman road.

It’s basically a free museum built into a transport system.

Explore Ano Poli (The Upper Town)

Aside from the neoclassical buildings in the city centre, you’ll probably notice that much of Thessaloniki looks fairly uniform, a little dull, almost Soviet-era in parts.

That’s largely because of the Great Fire of 1917, which destroyed most of the city. Rumour has it that it all started with some fried eggplants. Talk about a Greek tragedy.

While most of the city burned down, one area above the centre escaped the fire.

Ano Poli, or “Upper Town,” still retains much of the original architecture of Thessaloniki and, for the most part, feels more like a village than a neighbourhood just minutes from Greece’s second-largest city.

We loved wandering around here, grabbing a coffee in the sun, and taking in the views from above.

One of the best viewpoints is from Trigonion Tower, where you can see the city stretch all the way down to the sea with Mount Olympus in the background.

Visit the White Tower

No trip to Thessaloniki is complete without seeing the White Tower. It’s the city’s most recognisable landmark, sitting right along the waterfront, and it’s surprisingly compact up close.

The tower dates back to the 15th century during Ottoman rule and has had many roles over the years, including as a fortress and a prison. Today, it houses a small museum focused on the city’s history.

It costs €3 to enter, and you can climb to the top for views over the sea and back toward the city. 

The exhibition walks you through Thessaloniki’s past in a straightforward way, but even if you’re short on time, it’s worth at least walking around it from the outside and taking in the setting. 

Walk the Thessaloniki Waterfront

Running about five kilometres from the concert hall to the port, the Thessaloniki Waterfront is as local as it gets.

While the city isn’t as intense as Athens, it’s still a Greek city and can feel a little chaotic at times. The waterfront is the reset button. There’s space to walk properly, to run without dodging traffic, to cycle, or just sit facing the sea with a coffee or a beer and do absolutely nothing.

This is where you’ll see daily life happening. Students, families, older locals, fishermen, couples on evening walks. And on a clear day, when Mount Olympus appears in the distance, it almost doesn’t feel real.

If you want a simple way to understand Thessaloniki, start here.

Discover Ladadika District

Ladadika sits just east of the port and is one of the few areas in central Thessaloniki that immediately feels different. After rows of concrete apartment buildings, you suddenly get color, lower historic facades, and pedestrian streets tucked between everything else.

Declared a historical site in 1985 by the Ministry of Culture, the area is now protected, which is why those older buildings are still standing today.

It’s especially popular with university students, and in the evenings the whole neighbourhood fills up quickly. If you want a night out in Thessaloniki, or just a traditional meal without overthinking it, Ladadika is where you go.

Experience Thessaloniki’s Coffee and Wine Culture

Something that genuinely surprised us in Thessaloniki was how strong the coffee and wine scene is, especially in smaller, artisanal spots that really respect the craft rather than just serving mass-produced drinks.

These are the places that stood out to us.

Coffee

Hue

Both a roastery and coffee shop with beans sourced from around the world, just a stone’s throw from the Roman Forum of Thessaloniki, Hue is the best place to grab a coffee in Thessaloniki if you need some space to spread out, a desk to work from, and a high-quality cup (and maybe a sweet treat or two!).

Shed

Shed was the coffee shop I was most excited to try while we were in Thessaloniki. Also near the Roman Forum, it specialises in Japanese-style coffee and matcha, and despite being a tiny corner spot, it takes what it does seriously.

Designed in a Japandi style that blends Japanese and Scandinavian aesthetics, I loved the vibe just as much as the matcha, which I had flavoured with peach and salted caramel syrup. It was perfect for a sunny day in Thessaloniki.

Wine

Thessaloniki has clearly embraced the natural wine movement, which we were very happy about, considering how much we love natural wine.

Super Ioulios

I don’t even know where to begin with Super Ioulios. Located near Agia Sophia Church, it’s easy to stumble into while wandering the centre, but this is one you’ll want to seek out on purpose.

The wine list is basically a poster of natural wines from mainly Greece to choose from, which somehow makes it even more fun.

They also serve some of the best bruschetta and small bites to pair with your wine. Order the simple tomato bruschetta, and hopefully your life will change just as much as ours did.

Souel

Just outside Navarino Square on Pavlou Mela, Souel is another great wine bar that’s found its place in Thessaloniki’s wine scene.

It’s cosy without feeling cramped, the owners are friendly and happy to guide you toward your next glass, and the atmosphere is relaxed but still lively enough to feel like a treat.

Thessaloniki may not get the same spotlight as Athens, but after eating and drinking your way through Greece’s second city, you’ll realise pretty quickly – as we did – that it’s one of the tastiest and coolest places in the country.